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Athens

Craggy coves and sandy bays form the magnificent combination that is the coastline of Athens. Therefore at the close of an autumn day, I found myself with a rather agreeable question: where to head to soothe bones still aching for a last splash of summer sun. For this city offers something that other European cities do not: a shoreline of more than 40 miles dotted with beaches many a Aegean isle would envy.

Out of season, the shores of the region still have a strong appeal, as I discovered when taking a dip into a setting sun across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those seeking revitalization in marine blue waters ready to turn orange pink as the sun sets, bathing off one of the coastline's accessible or exclusive beaches does not let you down.

With sea salt still clinging to my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a eatery whose regional cuisine is as excellent as the breathtaking panorama of the bay it sits on. In a nod to times past, the appetizers is served on big platters.

Athens is as celebrated for its hills as its shore: rising terrain within view of the ancient citadel that make it a rich resource for strollers when the weather cools. For those who want to get away from a city that sprawls across almost 200 square miles, these rocky outcrops – holders of fabulous names such as the Hill of the Nymphs and the Muses' Hill – are a must.

In my view, this ancient capital is Europe’s most spiritual and sublime.

If you reach the top of Mount Lycabettus, the city’s highest point, either on foot or on the funicular rail car, the reward is a spectacular vista of the entire gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to stay centrally, the ancient Plaka district remains the ideal location. The old-school a classic hotel hotel has rooms facing the northern face of the Acropolis from about €140 B&B. In the vicinity, a popular restaurant is a preferred restaurant with residents and serves the juiciest lamb cutlets. With views of the Acropolis, Athens’ rooftop restaurants are highly evocative and ideal for mild fall nights – for a real treat visit Kuzina or the award-winning Macris.

The Sicilian Capital

Believe Neapolitan pizza is the last word in pizza? Think again. In Palermo they prefer Sicilian pizza, a tender, airy rectangle of dough topped with intense, onion-laden tomato sauce and topped with caciocavallo cheese and oregano. Hearty, satisfying and cozy, it’s sold in bakeries, kiosks and stalls all over the city (Via Maqueda in the historic centre usually has multiple sellers).

We try it at a stand on Piazza della Kalsa, near where we’re lodging. A local spot often has long queues, but they progress fast as young staff dish out slices of the pizza, as well as rice balls and panelle. There are a couple of seats under the trees outside, but we dine as we stroll into town along narrow a street. This is a pleasant stroll in autumn but wouldn’t be so in the heat. As hot spells rolled over Europe this year, the mercury in Sicily reached 104F in the shadow. At the end of July one sunbaked corner reached an unprecedented 70C at the surface.

We stroll the streets and savour how its long history is etched in its streets.

Now, as the climate rise to 24C by mid-afternoon, we can wander the city and savour how its heritage is visible in its streets. Walking by historic buildings, and Casa Stagnitta, the city’s first coffee house, we admire the Arab-Norman domes of the 12th-century church of San Cataldo; a main square, with its Renaissance fountain, placed under colonial times; and the grand church, constructed on the location of a ancient mosque.

On the way back we take a side trip to the local market, the roots of which also stretch back over a millennium. Some criticize its commercialization, but it is still noisy and brilliantly theatrical. Being adventurous, we pause for a classic spleen sandwich, which is better than expected, with its mildly sugary “meat” balanced by cheese topping. The vendor is particularly proud of his grilled goat’s intestines but, I’m sorry, no amount of seasoning can make those a treat for me.

We’re glad to return to more peaceful La Kalsa, the former Arab quarter to the eastern part, which was bombed in the second world war and languished for years before being renewed this century. Maison Butera (sea-view rooms from $175 with breakfast) is a four-room B&B with many attractions close by. Nearby is Palazzo Butera, a baroque baroque pile restored and relaunched in 2021 to display the Valsecchi art collection, which includes works by contemporary artists and pop art icons.

Next day we stroll a short distance to the city's gardens, with its record-breaking multi-trunk fig tree. Birds are chirping loudly as the light shines. Soon we’ll be in London, the time will change and the cold season will start. We relish a final days in the light.

The Austrian Capital

While lamenting the end of summer and hanging out at seaside spots and bathing spots on the branches of the river, I’m now seeking a different color. This city is a city of green spaces and manicured gardens, grassy areas and woodland belts, which exchange their green canopy for a rusty amber and ochre glow the locals call Goldener Herbst.

I leave behind the grandiose architecture and old streets of the historic centre. South-west of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park splays from the magnificent Habsburg summer residence, where the gilt isn’t limited for the interior, and leads into corridors of towering copper bushes and arched tree terraces that go to the bright building.

To the eastern part, in the city’s Prater Park, I stroll beneath the chestnut trees of the Hauptallee, an path that’s almost five kilometers long and ancient. On the border of the park, the retro-styled Superbude Prater hotel (doubles from €78 B&B) is a perfectly placed retreat.

In a city with many city gardens (thanks to a long-standing commitment to encouraging parks and building community spirit), the fall brings a feast of fresh produce on restaurant offerings. Squash soup is the classic dish – best eaten in a wood-panelled pub such as the art-splashed a popular spot – and followed with a breaded cutlet.

Vienna is a place of parks and gardens that change their green cover for a rusty amber and ochre glow.

Unbeknown to many, Vienna is the only European capital to grow wine within its city limits, with 1,723 acres of grape fields. There are 14 official city hiking trails, known as Stadtwanderwege. Route one takes you through the wine country of a district. Relax in a hillside Heuriger such as a local winery, drinking a zesty white wine with a platter (an assortment of cold cuts and cheese), while soaking up the sublime city vista.

The days are getting briefer, but now is the ideal moment to wander among the city's grand buildings, galleries and old homes – a {cultural crop|